Fall 2009 and Winter trip to Mexico
October 2009 - April 2010

Where the heck are you now?


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As of March 13 we are in Patzcuaro which is about 50km southwest of Morelia

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Europe - October

We seldom have a chance to see family who are living in Europe, so after we closed Jean's Guest House in October we were off to see Matthew, Tanya and family.

We spent a good deal of time in Lovagny with Chloe and Cartouche, but also took the opportunity to make several interesting side trips. We visited Basil Switzerland where one way to cross the Rhine is on the ferries without motors which have been in service for hundreds of years. After loading the passengers, the boatman heaves the tiller to the opposite side of the boat and the current pulls the boat across. We also visited Lyon which seems very much like Paris but on a slightly smaller scale.

Steve realised a longtime dream by meeting Matthew in Munich and visiting BMW Welt. We enjoyed the local fare and Beer at the Rathskeller and Hackenpschorr. We saw soccer in the stadium built for the 2006 world cup - very impressive.


St-Jean's  camping cake 
Harker fall weekend in Kingston - November 6-8

Kristin and Claire arrived early and created a special cake for David's 35th birthday. It was a camping scene complete with campfire.


michael and sophie  jean steve sophie 
Family visits Nov 12 - November 26

We enjoyed family visits on the road starting in Chicago with a birthday party for Michael. Then we spent Thanksgiving with Jean and Dave in St. Louis. We enjoyed the good weather and biking in Forest Park.


steve visits the alamo  jean walks the riverwalk 
On the road Nov 27 til Dec 2

We like to take in at least one place of interest on each drive if possible. This time we stopped in San Antonio, Texas to see the Alamo and their very impressive Riverwalk. The river front is completely finished with walking paths, restaurants and businesses.


mexican road sign  chapala office 
mountain view  papaya 
Set up for a month at Lake Chapala - December 2

There is a certain uncertainty when navigating in Mexico. This sign is telling us to go the wrong way down a one way street. But never fear, there will be many more signs to Guadalajara, in fact they are everywhere because as far as they are concerned every road leads there, or not. Dead reckoning works. Also ask three Mexicans and take the average. Luckily we had already parked and were on foot when we saw this sign.

Our campsite in Roca Azul RV Park is quiet and picturesque, Mexico wise. We are about three km from town so the fireworks at night and church bells in the morning are muted, although not absent. Best part is we can't hear any roosters or dogs, which is heaven.

We are enjoying the availability of fresh fruit and vegetables again. Jean is holding, wait, a papaya. That is not a pumpkin as Loblaw's shoppers might guess.


lunch  zocolo Mazamitla 
December 9, trip to Mazamitla

We set out to meet our friends Linda and Juergen at the Mazamitla RV Park and check out the mountain valley about 60km from our camp. The RV park is new, neat, clean, economical and has HOT water showers. Possible drawbacks are its near a highway with trucks and about 1km along a major highway from town.

The park owner recommended a restaurant in the town of Valle Juarez for lunch, La Cocinita. We enjoyed the tapas before lunch, tripa (tripe) and melanesa (a sort of beef jerky) with beans and several interesting salsas. The main courses of fish filet and chicken mole. With drinks for four, NP175, less than $17 Canadian. They served the best hand made corn tortillas we have ever eaten in Mexico

The town of Mazamitla itself is a mountain resort with much wood rather than masonry construction. It is high in the pine forests and very pleasant.

view of chapala  steve's dislocated thumb  December 15 - Steve wrecks his Christmas Vacation

We brought bicycles to Mexico for the first time this year. We had often discussed the difficulties of bicycling on the seep hills and cobble stone streets but, what the heck, we would give it a try. Our first bike ride from Roca Azul to the town of Jocotepec was a rough one. Jean said never again so we were just riding laps in the RV park for exercise. I have always successfully jumped up curbs on my bike, but not this time. From a cobblestone path it turns out to be different. I tried the jump and immediately made a multi point landing. There was an haematoma on my left leg, a large bruise on my right, a scratch on my right ankle and left elbow a scuff on my nose and the topper, a dislocated right thumb.

We set off for the emergency clinic right away where they wrapped it and forwarded me to clinic Nunez. Dr Nunez took an x-ray, administered a local anaesthetic, relocated my thumb, put on a half cast and set me up with 5 days worth of pills all within 2 hours. Three weeks later in January 5 he took of the cast, re wrapped the hand and said not to swim or try to grip anything with that thumb for 10 days. We then headed for the Pacific.

condo at Akumal  Tulum ruins 
decorating  santa 
Chloe bathing  * 
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December 17 - 31 Christmas Vacation at Akumal

We left Guadalajara and arrived at the Cancun airport on time and with baggage, thanks to Volaris the Mexican discount airline. Tanya and Bruno were not so lucky. After a 11 hour flight from Madrid which was only a few minutes late, they spent an hour waiting for luggage which would not actually arrive for 3 days. Then we drove in the dark through a downpour we will never forget. Good news is our condo was waiting and turned out to be worth the two months research that Jean had done before we chose it. Note the view of the Caribbean.

We had a couple of over cast and even one rainy day. A visit to fifth avenue in Playa del Carmen was our shopping day. Santa must have been hot in his dress red overcoat. We decorated a Christmas tree and ate Christmas dinner of stuffed chicken with the trimmings, all sans snow and ice; recommended.

Highlights were snorkeling where there were sea turtles, rays and allkinds of colourful fish on the reefs just in front of the condo. Steve kept his hand dry.

Visiting the ruins of Tulum and Coba were fascinating. Tanya and Jean used the Mayan rickshaw to get to the pyramid at Coba. Bruno climbed the pyramid which at 42m is the highest of the Maya of the Yucatan.

We ate at the excellent tourist restaurants in Akumal as well as the Mexican restaurants in Akumal Puebla, Playa del Carmen and Chemiyul where the atmosphere and prices are local. Jeans planning and negotiating provided a happy and memorable Christmas vacation

*  *  Winter months at the Pacific Coast

Upon our return to the shore of Lake Chapala on New Year's day the temperature had dropped to as low as 8C overnight and we had unseasonable rain. We did have a couple of decent days visiting Ajijic where we saw this Christmas tree made of nopale cactus paddles. No pine trees, no problem.

Steve had a final visit to Dr. Nunez and we were off to the coast. The drive was through another day of unbelievable downpours and when we reached San Patricio de Melaque the streets were more like lakes. However we reached the trailer park safely and set up for at least a month. We're not as interested in moving often because we have a few favourite places now and the Pacific Coast is definitely the best place to be in January and February. The first couple of days were cloudy, but by day 3 we saw a sunset like no other. See the green streak high in the sky? Not exactly the green flash, but unique in any case.

flan on the street  *  Good things to eat

There are so many things to eat that it's hard to stop. No need to squeeze fresh orange juice, the vendor does it and a large serving sells for a dollar. Likewise in the evening there are always vendors selling desserts like flan, sweet buns, etc.

rain like never before  rogue wave 
cocodrilos sign 
biking  melaque streets 
country dancer  * 
January 6 - February 16 - Melaque, Jalisco

We drove in a rainstorm on January 6 and were greeted with totally flooded streets in Melaque. Climate change is in full view here. On the day of the new moon at high tide a rogue wave came up over the beach and under our trailer. It was only a few centimeters deep, but we never forgot it and Steve did some civil engineering in case of another.

We noted the crocodile warnings and stayed well away from the swamp.

Jean enjoyed biking in Barra de Navidad where the streets were smoothly paved. Melaque streets are a different story. Rougher than Brock Street in Kingston and narrow.

Barra de Navidad has different entertainment than Melaque. The Rotary put on an event that included dancing, and there was a kiddie carnival in town. The locals love their kids and treat them to anything and everything. Plus they never seem to have a bedtime.

birthday breakfast  * 
valentines  sunset 
Jean's birthday and Valentines day

Our trailer park neighbours treated Jean to a birthday breakfast. The restaaurant, Roosters, treated her to a special rooster dessert pancake. In the evening we went to a very Mexican restaurant on the lagoon in Barra de Navidad. The atmosphere was perfect. The staff doesn't do birthday cakes, instead they grab the birthday girl and pour a shot of Tequila down her throat. Not exactly romantic, but you know they care. Jean had Mocajete, which is a dish cooked in a hot, lava bowl. Not being familiar with volcanic cooking, she burned the roof of her mouth on the first bite. Ouch! It took her a couple of days to recover form THAT party.

On Valentine's day we went to a dance. The singer was terrific and Jean claims we danced for the first time since Kristin and Paul's wedding

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Punta Perula

Punta Perula is a quiet, very quiet fishing village about 150km southeast of Puerta Vallarta. The veggie truck comes around to the camp and hotel, the fish coop sells fish right out of the locker and if you need tire work, the neatest "llantera" in all of Mexico is here.

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Patzcuaro

The main plaza in Patzcuaro is undergoing refurbishing. Park benches are sculpted stone which is assembled and later finished by a worker with a grinder. Getting ready for Semana Santa (Easter week) is a big job. The hand carved crucifiction is a big job for many workers. This one is in front of a wood carving shop.

It is much colder than we are used to. 5C overnight is not uncommon so we have our first coffee in our sleeping bags. Start the furnace? It's warm by 9AM and easier to sleep in.